KENZO AW24 "MAGIC GALAXY" MENSWEAR COLLECTION

Nigo’s AW24 collection for Kenzo was a masterful blend of cultural influences, weaving a new narrative of sophisticated style. The collection redefined evening wear and uniforms with a streetwear edge, all while nodding to a retrofuturistic aesthetic. Dubbed "Magic Galaxy," Nigo envisioned it as a global wardrobe bridging East and West.

Inspired by the way George Lucas drew on Akira Kurosawa’s samurai films to build the Star Wars universe, Nigo brought this same fusion of fantasy and reality to life in his designs. Japanese traditions and futuristic elements coalesced in both men's and women's garments, with highlights like a kimono-style coat reimagined with the bold structure of a warrior’s cape and intricate patterns that echoed the woodblock prints of traditional Japanese 'hakeshi baten' fireman jackets.

The menswear pieces took cues from Japan’s red ‘gakuran’ school uniforms, transforming them into sleek tailoring and oversized outerwear. These loose, elongated shapes were enhanced with detailed sashiko embroidery and beading, and styled with cutting-edge skate shoes or rugged biker boots. For the women’s looks, luxurious twinsets were given a modern twist with judo belts cinching the waist for a polished silhouette.

Nigo also paid homage to the musical legacy of Ryuichi Sakamoto and Yukihiro Takahashi of Yellow Magic Orchestra (YMO), both of whom passed away in 2023. The band’s iconic adaptation of ‘gakuran’ uniforms for their performances found its way onto the runway, with Cornelius—who played with YMO on their final tour—composing the show’s evocative soundtrack, bringing the creative journey full circle.

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