WRONG WEATHER'S GUIDE TO SOUTH KOREA - BUSAN & JEJU ISLAND

 

South Korea is equally known for its lush, rugged, hilly countryside and centuries-old Buddhist temples, its coastal fishing villages and sub-tropical islands, its ultra-modern innovations, frantic pace of life and blazing cascades of neons in the urban centers.
In the second part of this guide, we'll show you other cities or places besides the capital Seoul.

 

BUSAN

Busan Harbour by Nat Urazmetova
 

Busan, with its lively beaches and scenic coastal cliffs, is a refreshing break from the restless Seoul. South Korea’s second city is just a 2.5-hour journey from Seoul on the fast and efficient KTX high-speed railway, or less than an hour by air.

Situated near the Namp Port, Jagalchi is the largest fish and seafood market in Korea where primarily older female vendors (the market has the nickname “ajumma”, meaning middle-aged or married woman in Korean) sell just about every edible sea animal in every imaginable form - alive, cooked, dried.

 

Busan Jagalchi Market by Nat Urazmetova

Busan Jagalchi Market by Nat Urazmetova

 

The indoor area of the market also has a rooftop terrace on the 7th floor, from which you can enjoy a mesmerizing panorama over the harbour and the city. Instead of opting for a foreigner-friendly eatery indoor, try one of the local ones on the street, serving broiled eel or raw sliced fish.

 

Busan Jagalchi Market Abalone by Nat Urazmetova

Busan Jagalchi Market Broiled Eel by Nat Urazmetova

 

If you not yet fully overloaded by the assortment at Jagalchi, set your foot in Gukje Market and Nampodong Street. This vast street market packs hundreds of stalls, selling traditional crafts and regional produce, along a network of both covered and open-air lanes. Stroll down the Restaurant Street (also known as Arirang) which boasts over 60 years of history to discover dozens of food grubs and to soak up the zesty atmosphere.

 

Busan Gukje Market by Nat Urazmetova

Busan Gukje Market by Nat Urazmetova


Once you’ve done with the market buzz, leave the centre for the pastel-coloured Gamcheon Culture Village. Formerly a slum, this neighbourhood is now filled with twisted steep passages and houses vividly decorated with murals. This hilly neighbourhood offers some breathtaking views of the sea and the city below. 

Much like Gangnam in Seoul, Seomyeon is more of a trendy downtown neighbourhood crowded with the new generation Koreans. High-end shopping and entertainment are revolving here non-stop, only interrupted by clubbing.
If you happen to visit Busan in October or early November, don’t miss Busan International Fireworks Festival held annually on Gwangalli Beach, which offers myriads of high-tech laser light shows and spectacularly colourful fireworks.

 

Busan at night by Nat Urazmetova

 


JEJU ISLAND

Jeju by Nat Urazmetova

Jeju by Nat Urazmetova

 

A much favoured by the domestic holidaymakers, the subtropical Jeju is scattered with stunning volcanic beaches, alien rock formations and a whole host of UNESCO sites. Nicknamed the Hawaii of South Korea, the island is a delight to explore, and is suitable for relaxation as much as for more active and adventurous activities, including surfing.

 

Jeju Hallasan by Nat Urazmetova

 

At its centre stands Hallasan, a dormant volcano, which is the highest mountain in South Korea. It features multiple hiking trails and magnificent viewing points.

Jeju is renowned for its fresh oysters, abalone, clams, seaweed and other marine life which are  harvested by the island’s female free­divers, known as haenyeo, who are recognized as part of Korea’s cultural heritage. Being of average 65 years old, they are capable of diving to depths of 20 meters without any aid of professional equipment.

 

Jeju Grilled Seafood by Nat Urazmetova

 

The abundance of the freshest seafood and fish is reflected in the island’s cuisine which is packed with the speciality dishes hard to find anywhere on the mainland: Godeungeo Gui (grilled mackerel), variations of seafood ramen and cold noodles noodles, Sunggye Miyeokgoo (Sea urchin seaweed soup), octopus cheese bread. Apart from those, there are Heuk Dwaeji (BBQ Jeju Black Pork), peanut ice-cream, Hallabong and green tea drinks and desserts.

Some of those can be tasted at the traditional markets, Dongmun, Seogwipo Maeil Olle and Jeju Five-Day Folk Market. Natural wonders are not the only attractions found on the island, there is a whole range of the metropolitan life alike activities on offer.

 

Jeju Fried Seafood by Nat Urazmetova

 

If you fancy to check the island’s night life, dive into Monkey Beach in Seogwipo or Holla Jeju in Jeju-si. Around the neon-radiant Yeon-dong street you can also find lots of bars and cosmopolitan hangout spots.

 

Jeju Yeon-Dong by Nat Urazmetova

 

Nat Urazmetova

 

Read part I "Wrong Weather's Guide To South Korea" here.